Quick Trip to SLO Town

View towards town from the bridge over the railroad tracks.

     Try saying San Luis Obispo over and over, and you will understand why the locals call it SLO. However, it's an appropriate nickname for this pretty little town, where bike lanes and independent coffee shops outnumber luxury cars or fast food. I graduated college here five years ago, and still run into people I know downtown - it's the kind of place that will stick with you forever.
     My husband and I both went to to school at Cal Poly and always welcome an opportunity to come back and visit. Some friends of ours recently bought a house up there, and very courageously invited a whole slew of college friends and significant others to a weekend reunion/housewarming party. Although in all honesty the weekend mostly consisted of talking, laughing, drinking wine, staying up way too late and generally pretending we were all in college again, we did find a bit of time to do some of the SLO things we love.

Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa

     After working on Friday, driving, staying up talking and getting a few hours of sleep on the floor next to everyone else, Jordi woke up early Saturday morning and headed across the train tracks towards downtown for some coffee before everyone else woke up. Linnaea's is an old-time favorite, with a cute patio outside and a laid-back barista, probably wearing gardening clogs or sporting dreads, whipping up your drink. After a round of chess with an old man named Mark who needed a partner, Jordi finished his coffee and headed back to the house where I was just waking up, and wanting MY morning cuppa!
So off we went again across the bridge, over the train tracks and down into town. One of my favorite little spots is called Uptown Coffee, which apparently has changed its name to Black Horse. At any rate, I love the bustling vibe, the fresh scents of coffee and pastries and the little fireplace inside with stacks of newspapers next to it. Hipsters instead of hippies serve the coffee here, there's plenty of space for laptops, and the bike racks are full of single-speeds. Choosing your coffee shop is almost like choosing your identity - but luckily you can frequent them all, knowing you'll encounter tasty brews and smiling baristas.
     With my steaming to-go cup in hand, we strolled downtown towards the Mission San Luis Obispo, which was founded by Friar Junipero Serra in 1776 and named after French Bishop, Saint Louis of Toulouse. After the War of Independence from Spain broke out in 1810, the Mission remained self-sufficient, receiving hardly any funds from Spain, nor from the new Mexican government, but by that time the community around the Mission was well established and lived on to to be what is now San Luis Obispo. The small Mission and it's gardens in the back are definitely worth a look around. On the other side of the plaza are steps down to the San Luis Creek. A path next to the creek makes for a pretty meandering walk.

     We made it back to the house by the time everyone else was waking up, hanging out for awhile until they went off to the SLO Beer Fest at the Veterans Hall, while Jordi and I opted instead to take our bikes for a ride. I'm of the opinion that you can't fully appreciate San Luis Obispo if you don't ride a bike. For three years I lived here relying solely on my bike, and not only is the whole town bike-able, but it's also more enjoyable on a bike. Not every town is better on a bike, so take advantage! We pedaled along the quiet tree lined streets into town and parked outside of Big Sky Cafe, one of my favorite all-around restaurants in SLO.

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     Made to feel like you are outside in a European square under the stars, the food is fresh, local and delicious. You can get hot beignets or a big plate of farmers market produce, come on a date or with the entire family. The gourmet or homey options are all made with natural ingredients, drawing you back to test their breakfast, lunch and dinner menus! 

     After eating, we walked around town and ran into an old roommate of Jordi's who was busy building out a restaurant space for his soon-to-come eatery called Old San Luis BBQ. We then rode back over the train tracks and visited another friend who has a super cute house in the nighborhoods, complete with a vegetable patch, fruit trees, glass milk bottles in the windowsill and decks everywhere (having a good porch is a prerequisite for the SLO life). 

On our way back to the house where we were staying, we detoured through the park where we used to play tennis during the summers, which also boasts a baseball feild, bbq's, pool center, frisbee golf, and is located just off the bike path.

Bike path on the other side of the train tracks from

Downtown, near Sinsheimer Park.

     Once back at the house, we spent the rest of the evening with friends.
     The next morning, after packing up, breakfast and goodbye's, Jordi and I hung out in downtown for a bit more. We love the big ol' Barnes and Noble, with a coffee shop and windows overlooking the square below. It's one of the busiest places in town and also the best hang out "homework" spots. On this rainy day it was packed with little kids, families and studying college students, with people sitting in every corner and standing in every isle. We bought some CD's to listen to on the road, and continued our walk down memory lane.
     Hands Gallery is one of my favorite shops, selling anything from furniture and books to glassware and jewelery. Then of course there's Bali's self serve frozen yogurt, a SLO classic, located towards the top of Higuera Street. One of the first frozen yogurt shops around, the self serve yogurt and toppings are affordable and make for a fun outing. Next door is the University gift shop, Cal Poly Downtown, which is appropriate because both Cal Poly and Bali's are almost equally important to the town of SLO. And right up the street lies another local hotspot, Firestone Grill, which makes for the perfect trifecta of what SLO entails - Cal Poly pride, Firestones tri-tip sandwich and Bali's fro-yo. Throw in a bike, a front porch and an orange tree, and there you have the SLO life.

     As we headed out of town, I remembered I wanted to stop at the Madonna Inn to get a piece of chocolate cake. Enough said - even if we passed the off-ramp, the chocolate cake is reason to turn around. At any rate, Madonna Inn warrants a visit if you are in SLO, simply to see the elaborate and custom-made details, or as Wikipedia eloquently says, "some tourists stop just to peek at the famous rock waterfall urinal located in the men's washroom, a feature designed by Hollywood set designer Harvey Allen Warren." Like a quick trip to Disneyland... Apparently they have amazing steak, but all I've ever ordered is the chocolate cake, which is six lush layers of decadence that I highly recommend. And if you're thinking of getting married, it makes for an awesome wedding cake - I speak from experience ;) Madonna Mountain is right in the backyard of the Inn, and if you have time while in SLO, a hike to the top of this hill, or one of the many others in the neighborhood, will grant you great views and a couple hours of outdoor exercise.

     We drove through the hills and back towards reality, leaving behind San Luis Obispo, a little fairytale land where everyone seems to be outdoorsy, friendly and relaxed. When the entire coast is covered in fog, SLO is always sunny. Where the biggest issues seem to be which craft beer is organic or whether to go to Paso or Santa Inez for some wine tasting. If you find yourself driving up the coast, make time for this sleepy little town. And the longer you stay, the less sleepy it will seem. 

                                                                                                                                              

Dining room at Madonna Inn